There’s
an accepted, nay even an expected inverse correlation between dining and
altitude; typically,the higher the meal and the better the view, the worse the
cooking. (Just think of plane food). This is why the Paramount, perched atop
the thirty-second floor of one of London's least-loved landmarks, is a shock -
because in addition to the exhilarating views, the food is really very good.
Paramount's
Tom Dixon interior, designed to chime with the brutal 1966 modernism of the
building’s exterior, is upstaged by the aerial view. Nevertheless, Chef Colin
Layfield's menu is a compelling enough reason alone to visit. They’re not
giving it away - starters around a tenner, main courses £15-£25, desserts £7-11
- but all things considered (and the
view is a big consideration), the prices are pretty fair.
You
get a sense of what's to come when twice-baked roquefort soufflé starter
arrives on a black slate that's drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar. Prettier
still, some beetroot-stained cured salmon, topped by a little fillet of seared
salmon, overlaying green streak of pea purée, all served on an opaque
rectangular glace plate.
Mains are all very tempting indeed. There is a
slight sense that Layfield is trying a little bit too hard, cramming every
snazzy and seasonal ingredient going into everything, in an attempt, perhaps,
to compete with the view. Having said that, you don’t go to Paramount to be shy
and stare at beige walls and eat pared-down food. So I say, go all out and
embrace the purees, the creams and the daring combinations. They create a
skyline on the plate that’s almost a match for the one outside.
Following the duo of salmon I pursued the plurality
theme with trio of rabbit; saddle, roast leg and confit shoulder; with peas,
carrots and grain mustard sauce (£22.50). Far from being a lesson in lupine
anatomy, the shoulder was unrecognizable as such, having been minced, formed
into a square patty and deep-fried in breadcrumbs, deliciously. Again, there
were even more ingredients on the plate than had been listed, including a patty
of spinach and some wild mushrooms. My companion’s sautéed spring lamb and
young vegetables with basil and tomato was on the simpler end of the spectrum,
and was a generous rack: big, red and flavoursome. For those that want to
impress their dates with flourishes, there’s the wild sea bass with potato
gnocchi, samphire and caviar cream or the goat cheese and red onion roll with
celeriac fondant, pea purée and saffron artichokes.
For
pudding, I decided that, bearing in mind my location, the only way was up, so I
plumped for the banana quartet (parfait, lime
caramel, milk shake and spiced banana cake). Whilst seemingly unorthodox
combination, the textural medley was a great success. So too was the motley
crew my friend selected: walnut tart, cider sorbet, pink lady apple strudel
with ginger custard. For me, the one let down was the custard. Since the other
constituents were cold, a puddle of warm custard would have worked better, I
thought, than the admittedly very artistic globule that was presented.
After
the feast, we were shown up a flight of stairs to the top floor, where there’s
a bar in which you can walk right around the building, soaking up the views of
the horizon, and Oxford Street, beginning to glitter and crawl with headlights,
as the evening darkens. We wander round in wonderment, countless times,
stopping every now and again to sit on a nice leathery banquette or in a
tipping bucket chair. Even when you’re stony sober, it’s spacey and
intoxicating.
Paramount
is a truly staggering place to sit and eat and drink, however you look at it.
And as a place to bring a date, or a visitor to London, or just to get your
bearings in your home town and finally piece together where everything is, I
can’t recommend it highly enough.
Paramount
Centre
Point, 101-103 New Oxford Street, London WC1 (020 7420 2900)
