Maldives: Island Hideaway

Of the hundred or so luxurious little lily-pads ceaselessly vying with one another to offer the most indulgent experience in the Maldives, Island Hideaway is undoubtedly a contender for top spot.

Only 43 exclusive villas dot Dhonakulhi; at Island Hideaway luxury doesn't just mean endless cold towels, ten types of pillow and personal butler service – it's about having lots of space, too. On the map the atoll's slivers of low-lying sand look like bones in an X-ray, enclosing a crescent-shaped lagoon. In the south of the atoll lies its greatest secret – Hanimaadhoo, an airport served by scheduled flights from Malé. Just as in the Caribbean, where it invariably pays to fly on to the lesser-known islands, so in the Maldives it is worth going the extra few hundred miles if seeking seclusion.

As well as fabulous diving, waters pulsating with baby turtles and the thrill of getting far away from the rest of the world, there is the opportunity to cycle around part of the lowest, flattest country on Earth (the highest point in the Maldives is only 8ft above sea level), bliss for the softie cyclist. Every guest is given a robust bike, and it's an utter delight to ride through the sun-dappled palms, glimpsing geckos, watching the fish from the jetties, then perhaps heading off to the superlative spa, Mandara (where I experienced a fabulous Balinese massage), or to eat divine food with mouthwatering views at either Matheefaru or Gaafushi restaurants.

What really sets Island Hideaway apart, however, is its ability to provide guests with unique experiences given its geographical location and incredibly high staff to guest ratio.  A common concern felt by those contemplating a week or more in the Maldives is the supposed lack of ‘culture’ on offer. Given Dhonakulhi’s proximity to the historic Utheem Island, however, this is not an issue. Whilst visitors to other resorts might slap on sunscreen and settle in hammocks with their Stieg Larsson-loaded Kindles, we take a boat from the jetty to the historic Utheem Island. Shakeeb, my butler, seems thrilled to show off his home turf. The villages are neat and clean, shaded by breadfruit and mango trees with single-storey houses built from coral with corrugated iron roofs. Following recent elections, many are painted with the colours of competing parties. Everybody smiles and waves at the mad Englishwoman out in the midday sun.  The island houses Utheem Palace, where the distinguished hero of the Maldivian independence movement, Mohammed Thakurufaan, lived in the 16th century. The palace in which he resided is well preserved; the interior of the palace provides a fascinating insight into Maldivian life. It is also possible to visit Thakurufaan Memorial Centre, which houses a library with an impressive collection of books about the history of Maldives and religion.

Other unforgettable experiences included lunch at the Sandbank, the most secluded spot on the eastern tip of the island, and a sunset fishing trip during which I actually caught supper – a gigantic grouper fish.

Perhaps the best aspect of my stay at Island Hideaway was a sense that the service was to a great extent intuitive. Favourite condiments mysteriously found their way to my table before they were requested, and preferred beverages were always placed in the cool boxes on excursions.  Much of this is thanks to the wonderful butler service; Shakeeb was extremely attentive and unfailingly good-humoured, in spite of my multifarious requests; I might not have sent for lobster Thermidor at four in the morning (as a previous guest purportedly did), but I still classify myself as a demanding guest.    

For paradise with a twist, look no further.

 

Maldives: Lily Beach Resort and Spa

It's 6.45am in South Ari Atoll and a spotted eagle ray is gliding nonchalantly past the jetty at Lily Beach Resort & Spa. Its wings flap gently in the warm, shallow waters that are so clear they seem to magnify the peaceful garden of delights below. Here comes a parrotfish in a fetching psychedelic number, bowling along on its dawn patrol. And there's a posse of snappily striped angelfish, hurrying by as if just back from an all-night party.

Spared the worst ravages of the bleaching that has dulled the coral in other parts of the Maldives, the seabed here is bejewelled with flashes of blue, green and purple. As the sun gains strength, the lagoon surrounding me fills with an immense calm. It is 82F (28C) and you know it's going to be another classic day of clear blue skies, sensational snorkelling trips, siestas on the daybed, then dinner overlooking the beach with rows of candles decorating the sand.

So far, so very high-end Maldives – except that down here on Huvahendhoo (the islands of the Maldives are so enchantingly named I can't help wondering if Edward Lear got here first), one of the southernmost atolls in this 500-mile island chain, the holiday experience is refreshingly different. Some islands are so small you can walk round them in five minutes; others proffer ridiculously OTT amenities such as an underwater restaurant, pretentious afternoon teas and wine cellars with bottles costing up to £38,000. Invariably there is a niggling fear that a week in the Maldives, however much you are in love, could well leave you feeling trapped, bored and overcharged.

But not here. Lily Beach is unique in that it is the only premium all-inclusive island in the Maldives. Every guest is placed on the Platinum Plan, which is astonishingly comprehensive;  nothing requires a signature (from the cigarettes to the mini bar bill), and every activity you can think of - tennis, gym, non-motorised watersports and snorkelling is all free.

The buffets at Lily Maa restaurant are superb, with quality ingredients throughout, from the fresh fruit juices to the prime cheeses. For variety, there are two barbecue nights with exotic meats, such as ostrich and kangaroo, alongside the freshly-caught lobster and tiger prawns. Also included in the Platinum Plan is one evening meal at the sensational Sino-Indian restaurant, Tamarind. In addition, the resort’s three bars act as outlets for snacks at other times of the day, as well as a constant source of liquid refreshment. The Vibes bar at the eastern tip of the island does disco or live music twice a week until the last person is helped back to their room.

Water Villa from reef edge

Water Villa plunge pool

Lunch by the beach

The Reception

The Spirit Bar at night

Lily Maa main restaurant

Sunset Water Suite bathroom

A spa treatment or two at the purpose built, over-water Tamara Spa is very much to be recommended.  Gazing at the shimmering sealife through Perspex as my masseuse manipulated my muscles was an unutterably sublime experience.  Other unmissable experiences  (included as part of the Platinum Plan) are the sunset fishing trip and excursions to both an uninhabited island (Theluveligaa), and a fishing village, Dhangethi, which has a rich cultural centre and some decent shops, some of whose names are entertainingly direct. One is called Local Veg, another, Shawl and Hijab.

This being a southeastern atoll, the diving is excellent. There are world renowned thilas and channels to the north and south of the island. In the summer months mantas are frequently seen nearby. Whale sharks are seen year round on the very southern tip of the atoll, sometimes coming up past Lily Beach on the east side. Despite the portentous nomenclature, both the rays and sharks present no risk to humans.
 
The Deluxe Water Villas and Sunset Water Suites make snorkelling access particularly easy - just a few steps down and a short drift to the reef drop-off. This is glorious, and surprisingly uncommon despite the number of water bungalows in the Maldives. All the rooms are replete with Nespresso machines, jacuzzi baths and large LCD flat screen satellite televisions with DVD players, ipod docks and wifi internet connection. The rooms share close similarity in style, materials and fittings but differ in size and location. The Beach Villas come in pairs, six of which are inter-connected for family use. Families are welcomed and there is both an outdoor play area and two indoor rooms, well-stocked with toys for guided games and entertainment for children under 12.  

All told, Lily Beach is an unreservedly recommended ultra-refined, yet refreshingly relaxed resort.

Kuoni (01306 747008 or www.kuoni.co.uk)offers 7 nights on all inclusive basis at the 5-star Lily Beach Resort &Spa at Huvahendhoo, in a beach villa, including flights with British Airwaysfrom London Gatwick and group transfers in resort. Price for 2011 from £2,386per person based on two sharing. To book please quote: MV1113 (From price validfor departure September 2011)

 

 

Lily Beach

 

Aqua Bar & Pool

 

The Vibe swimming pools

 

Lagoon Villas

 

Beach Villa outside

 

Beach on the north side

 

 

Badrutt's Palace, St Moritz

After a day spent skiing off-piste, dodging rock outcrops and crevasses, and convinced that I was going to die, upon entering Palace Wellness, the Spa at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, I was pretty sure that I had, in fact, gone to heaven. Following a tripartite, 50 million  CHF redevelopment , executed between 2008 and 2010, the Wellness area has been seriously spruced up. During the first phase, the resort’s magnificent, 6 metre deep oval pool and Wet Zone, including ice and mist rooms, in addition to two saunas and a tropical rainforest shower was upgraded, and in the second and third, a new restaurant was built in the spa, along with new treatment and changing rooms, a fitness centre and a Kids’ Club.  As Martha Wiedemann, overseer of the redevelopment programme, explains: ‘ it is important to me that the beautiful surroundings of the Engadin valley flow into every part of the wellness area. Local purchases, plenty of natural light and local building materials characterize the look of the renovation.” In this vein, the hotel has returned to using white spruce, a local Grisons evergreen, for the wood paneling, the granite used originates from the quarry on the San Bernadino Pass located near St. Moritz, the treatment rooms are named after flowers from the Engadin region and the treatment menu  uses exclusively organic product lines such as Anika Organic Luxury, Intraceuticals, Shodeea and La Biosthetique.

The spa is a cross between clinical and cosy, with soothing music, water features and a particularly well-laid out relaxation zone. There is no tedious formality or dress code. The sign outside the mixed sauna area wasn’t so much a suggestion as an imperative to strip off (yikes! and even with blokes about). Thank heavens for the ladies-only area. I slid butt-naked into the aroma grotto, a scented Tardis-like chamber with a giant crystal in it, and tried to relax before my ‘Aroma Plastmark Mental Active’ treatment .

I was led into the Paradisea Massage room, a candle-lit boudoir in which I encountered a bed, quite unlike any massage bed that I had experienced before; a heated water bed, with integrated sound system. Apparently the ergonomic design helps to rebalance the mind and body. It did just that.

Karin, my therapist, was a dream. Soothing, assured manner? Check. Firm, dexterous hands? Check. Experience? She has a decade’s worth. The treatment included a foot massage with arnica milk, then a soak in a “Honey-Swiss stone pine bath”' (more stoic disrobing.) After pouring in aromatic honey and pine oils, Karin disappeared and I was left to loofah myself with the bits of orange shavings that bobbed about.

The stone pine is something of a miracle tree; prolonged whiffs of the bark are thought to slow down your heartbeat and boost circulation. Nicely woozy, I was primed for my back massage with the Oil of Life, aka marmot oil (from an Alpine rodent), a local cure for aching muscles, rheumatism and skin complaints. Seems that the Alps are overrun with the critters. Every autumn a number are culled and the oil is extracted and bottled. Whatever qualms I had (none, actually) melted away under Karin’s expert ministrations. This was a proper, medicinal pummelling and bliss to my knotty shoulders and stiff spine.

Other bonuses in the Wellness Area include free fitness classes for guests, a medical centre, with a team of doctors, and opportunities to participate in adventure sports, golf or hiking

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel www.badruttspalace.com +41 (0)81 837 1100 offers treatments from CHF 30 and standard double rooms are available from CHF 365 per room per night.