Maldives: Island Hideaway

Of the hundred or so luxurious little lily-pads ceaselessly vying with one another to offer the most indulgent experience in the Maldives, Island Hideaway is undoubtedly a contender for top spot.

Only 43 exclusive villas dot Dhonakulhi; at Island Hideaway luxury doesn't just mean endless cold towels, ten types of pillow and personal butler service – it's about having lots of space, too. On the map the atoll's slivers of low-lying sand look like bones in an X-ray, enclosing a crescent-shaped lagoon. In the south of the atoll lies its greatest secret – Hanimaadhoo, an airport served by scheduled flights from Malé. Just as in the Caribbean, where it invariably pays to fly on to the lesser-known islands, so in the Maldives it is worth going the extra few hundred miles if seeking seclusion.

As well as fabulous diving, waters pulsating with baby turtles and the thrill of getting far away from the rest of the world, there is the opportunity to cycle around part of the lowest, flattest country on Earth (the highest point in the Maldives is only 8ft above sea level), bliss for the softie cyclist. Every guest is given a robust bike, and it's an utter delight to ride through the sun-dappled palms, glimpsing geckos, watching the fish from the jetties, then perhaps heading off to the superlative spa, Mandara (where I experienced a fabulous Balinese massage), or to eat divine food with mouthwatering views at either Matheefaru or Gaafushi restaurants.

What really sets Island Hideaway apart, however, is its ability to provide guests with unique experiences given its geographical location and incredibly high staff to guest ratio.  A common concern felt by those contemplating a week or more in the Maldives is the supposed lack of ‘culture’ on offer. Given Dhonakulhi’s proximity to the historic Utheem Island, however, this is not an issue. Whilst visitors to other resorts might slap on sunscreen and settle in hammocks with their Stieg Larsson-loaded Kindles, we take a boat from the jetty to the historic Utheem Island. Shakeeb, my butler, seems thrilled to show off his home turf. The villages are neat and clean, shaded by breadfruit and mango trees with single-storey houses built from coral with corrugated iron roofs. Following recent elections, many are painted with the colours of competing parties. Everybody smiles and waves at the mad Englishwoman out in the midday sun.  The island houses Utheem Palace, where the distinguished hero of the Maldivian independence movement, Mohammed Thakurufaan, lived in the 16th century. The palace in which he resided is well preserved; the interior of the palace provides a fascinating insight into Maldivian life. It is also possible to visit Thakurufaan Memorial Centre, which houses a library with an impressive collection of books about the history of Maldives and religion.

Other unforgettable experiences included lunch at the Sandbank, the most secluded spot on the eastern tip of the island, and a sunset fishing trip during which I actually caught supper – a gigantic grouper fish.

Perhaps the best aspect of my stay at Island Hideaway was a sense that the service was to a great extent intuitive. Favourite condiments mysteriously found their way to my table before they were requested, and preferred beverages were always placed in the cool boxes on excursions.  Much of this is thanks to the wonderful butler service; Shakeeb was extremely attentive and unfailingly good-humoured, in spite of my multifarious requests; I might not have sent for lobster Thermidor at four in the morning (as a previous guest purportedly did), but I still classify myself as a demanding guest.    

For paradise with a twist, look no further.