Thursday, 14 April 2011

Castlemartyr Resort & Spa


My suspicions are always aroused when I read uniformly gushing comments on a hotel’s guest review page. Reality invariably belies hyperbole, and my cynical belief that these comments are carefully cherry-picked is more often than not confirmed. Prior to my visit to Castlemartyr Resort, ensconced in the countryside of Co. Cork, I was thus highly dubious; the hotel’s guest review page is positively eulogistic. How can a country hotel in Ireland be the avowed ‘favourite hotel in the world’ of so many guests? The answer became apparent during my stay.

Attentive service is a given in any luxury hotel worthy of its label, but the team at Castlemartyr is unfailingly attentive, and at times intimate, without ever being intrusive or sycophantic. Upon arrival we were greeted by Dermot at reception in the manner of long lost relatives, who whisked us straight into an impressive Georgian ballroom (the main lounge) for some drinks whilst our room was being made ready (we had arrived at the crack of dawn, on a Ryanair flight on which most of the passengers seemed inebriated – probably the most practical way to blot out the whole dismal exercise of getting from Stansted to Cork at six in the morning). On another occasion, as my sister and I were in the lobby, asking for recommendations for woodland walking routes, we were proffered bottles of sun cream (something it had not occurred to us to pack, it being Ireland, in April, for heaven’s sake!) by the friendly receptionist. Nearly all the staff appeared to be accomplished conversationalists, to the extent that we wondered whether that forms part of their employment criteria. Upon my expression of interest in one of the hotel’s magnificent Rococo ceilings, the waiter (Gunther) delivered a fascinating discourse on the contrast between early and late Baroque styles.

The hotel itself is a study in artful architectural amalgamation. The main part of the hotel is a Georgian mansion, which is adjoined by an evocatively dilapidated thirteenth century castle on one side, and a sympathetically proportioned contemporary wing on the other, housing guest rooms and the superb spa, pool and fitness centre. Despite their juxtaposing epochs, the three buildings blend beautifully, and are set, majestically, in front of a sprawling Irish meadow with grazing horses and delightful little Kerry bog ponies, flanked by a large meandering river. The hotel management might have been shooting a brochure photo when I arrived – a jogger was setting out across the parkland, a couple were returning from a bike ride (the hotel have a number of bikes for guests to use, free of charge), and some children were petting the ponies by the swan lake.

Thoughtfully, the reception desk is off to side of the pillared hallway, so you still get the sense of walking into a private country house. Check-in complete, we were shown to our ground floor suite. I was quite taken aback by the size – the room was truly gigantic, without even taking into account the separate hallway, capacious dressing room and outdoor hedged courtyard. As you’d expect from a luxury countryside hotel, the room had all the mod cons – safe, minibar, elegant tea and coffee set, and good signage, including very clear instructions on how to use the touch screen control panel embedded in the bedside table (sparing me the usual embarrassing baffled Operator call for help closing the electric curtains). The piece de resistance, however, was the bathroom. It was the size, first, that made us gasp (there were separate offshoot for the loo and shower from the main, hexagonal, marble clad room, and then the little details that sprang out – the provision of two hairdryers in the separate, facing sinks, the neck pillow in the bath, and the heated floor in the toilet.

If you’re staying for just one night you’ve got a tough decision to make because there’s so much to do at the hotel. The surrounding wooded parkland offers cycling, walking, and golf, and if the weather puts a wet blanket on outdoor activities, there’s plenty to do inside. The aforementioned spa offers a very comprehensive menu (from which I sampled the deep tissue manage and Anne Semonin Miracle Eyes treatment - both sublime), and the spa complex also houses a swimming pool, steam room and sauna, plus a gym and studio offering fitness classes.

If that all sounds too energetic, the hotel houses a wonderful pair of restaurants – the more formal Bell Tower, and the more casual Knights Bar. The food in both is superb. Breakfast was a sizeable buffet, including a pleasing variety of local produce – yogurt from the dairy farm down the road, and homemade muesli (a secret hotel formula). Dinner was faultless; the particular highlight for me was the doughnut perched on poached pineapple and pepper sorbet, which was a mouthwatering work of art.

All told, Castlemartyr excels across the board. My misgivings about the impossibly radiant reviews were utterly confounded. Those who describe this as their favourite hotel in the world have impeccable taste.


Castlemartyr Resort

Rooms at Castlemartyr Resort start from £95 per person per night, based on two adults sharing a deluxe room. Quote Law and More on booking and you will receive a welcome drink on arrival and 15% discount on spa treatments.

To book call 00353 214 21 9000 or visit www.castlemartyrresort.ie











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