The charm of the wild stretch of
sand on the south-west tip of the Algarve that constitutes Martinhal Beach lies in its
simplicity. There's lots of space for lounging around or running about on the
wild stretch of sand, where the Atlantic is in a constant strop. When you tire
of your holiday reading, you can stretch your legs with a walk across the
headland to see the ruins of Henry the Navigator's fort, the Cape Canaveral of
the 15th century. Or you could always just while away the time watching surfers
ride the waves, or gulls and waders seek out the waters of the tidal pool. True
relaxation. What more could you want?
Turn
your back to the sea and consider a new vision of what visitors to Martinhal
might desire. At the top of the beach, where there was once just the pines and
maritime scrub of the Costa Vincentina Natural Park, stands a flash new hotel
with a legion of holiday houses, the Martinhal Beach Resort & Hotel.
Sounds
like eco-vandalism. But it isn't, at least to my mind. This plot of land had
been scythed by a road and earmarked for development back in the 1980s – before
people gave much of a thought to letting diggers mow down Mother Nature and get
so close to the seashore. All sorts of monstrosities could have scarred this
fragile landscape. Fortunately, the final plan was put in the hands of Roman
and Chitra Stern, Nigel Chapman and Nicholas Dickinson.
Fans
of hotel breaks might recognise those last two names as the original team
behind Woolley Grange, the stylish, unstuffy, family-friendly retreat in
Wiltshire that won a generation of affluent British parents over to the idea
that hotels could genuinely welcome rather than tolerate kids. Chapman and
Dickinson rolled out their now much-copied formula to three more properties
before the collection, Luxury Family Hotels, was snapped up by Von Essen in
2006. That family-centred boutique approach also impressed the Sterns, who
asked the hoteliers to create and run the hotel at Martinhal, to fulfil an
essential part of the planning permission for the whole project.
But
Chapman and Dickinson's influence hasn't been confined to the hotel. They also
prompted a radical rethink of the resort's architecture, which led to the
traditional Portuguese style of the 50 villas completed in the initial build
being ditched in favour of an audacious modern interpretation of the landscape
by London-based architects Conran & Partners.
Conran
conceived a long, two-storey structure for the hotel and set it on the brow of
the beach, placing 10 bedrooms with sea-facing terraces at ground level and a
glass-fronted lounge and restaurant on the floor above. Twenty-eight more
bedrooms and suites were set at one side, in a sequence of huge wood-clad
boxes. And, directly below the hotel, the architects laid out a beach club,
with a large pool, bar and restaurant.
The
box concept was repeated for the design of the 132 resort houses, where the
concrete was left bare. Conran made the most of the confines of the original
plot by positioning some units to overlook the beach and others facing the bay
and the pine woods of the surrounding nature reserve. At the centre of the
site, a landlocked space was turned to the resort's advantage with the creation
of a walled and gated complex focusing on a vast garden with a pool, designed
to appeal to families with youngsters.
A
large open-air "Village Square" serves as the the heart of the
off-beach action, with an indoor/outdoor pool, shop, bistro, ice-cream parlour,
gym, crèche and a club for older children, replete with Wii and foosball tables.
Tennis courts and a spa with six treatment rooms, sauna and steam room are
positioned in further-flung corners of the resort.
The
resort has taken a holistic approach to its impact upon the local environment;
both environmental and social considerations have been taken into account. All
the buildings have excellent insulation and had been orientated to the sun, and
use the rainfall from the roofs on the soil, thereby alleviating pressure on
the local sewage works. Moreover,
indigenous plants that required minimal watering were selected – in the
Algarve, one of the biggest environmental issues is the over-extraction of
water. The resort has also renewed the electricity supply to the nearby town
Sagres, and hired many of the 250 staff from the local area; 250 further
indirect jobs have been created, practical acknowledgements of its role in the
community.
The resort boasts a trio of
restaurants. Lunch on the terrace at the chic As Dunas can slip languorously
into cocktail hour. Line-caught fish, fleshy hoops of grilled squid,
just-landed oysters and clams, and a peculiar delicacy called perceves,
a goose-necked barnacle resembling dinosaur toes are served by the beach. O
Terraco serves breakfast and gourmet fare, including the chef's sublime starter
of sea urchin with scrambled egg served in a half-urchin shell (at €49/£40 the
six-course tasting menu is excellent value for money), whilst Os Gambozinos in
the Village Square is a more laid back pizzeria-cum-diner.
The resort boasts an excellent
spa -The Finisterra, which provides a comprehensive range of treatments, and multifarious
diversions including surfing, scuba diving, windsurfing, riding, jeep safaris,
nature walks, gourmet picnics and (at preferential rates) golf.
The
interiors of all the lodgings are as striking as the buildings, with furniture
commissioned from Michael Sodeau, whose work features in London's Victoria
& Albert Museum. His covetable designs rekindle artisan skills, using such
materials as Portuguese wood and cork fashioned into deceptively simple softly
angled shapes. The in-house interiors team, led by Chapman, has embellished the
practical look with soft fabrics and fun touches such as sheepskin beanbags and
giant basket-weave lamps, sourced with help from London design dealer
Twentytwentyone. My timber-clad "beach room" had a decked, bay-facing
balcony and the bathroom came with separate shower and oversized tub and cute
cane-woven lamps made from Algarvian reeds.
The
quality of finish could be no less for a hotel pronouncing itself
"Europe's finest luxury family resort". More surprising are the
prices, which start at £129 a night in the hotel and £1,100 a week for a house
sleeping four – very competitive for the five-star market. But the biggest pull
for me is still that wonderful beach.
Martinhal
Beach Resort and Hotel, Apartado 54, Sagres, 8650-908,
Portugal. (00351 282 620 026; www.martinhal.com)
We flew with award winning low
fares airline Monarch, which offers flights to Faro from Birmingham, London
Gatwick, London Luton (summer season only) and Manchester airports with fares,
including taxes, starting from £46.50 one way (£83.99 return)
In addition to year-round low fares, Monarch also
offers a unique range of tasty hot and cold meals onboard with prices from
£3.00. Seats can be pre-booked at £7.50 per one-way flight to avoid the last
minute free-for-all experienced on some other airlines, or for only £20,
extra-legroom seats are available, which offer up to six inches of extra space.
Passengers travelling on scheduled flights can also
avoid the queues at the airport and take advantage of online check-in which is
available between 18 days and 4.5 hours prior to departure.For further
information or to book, please visit www.monarch.co.uk.
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